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Notes on a remarkable journey

And we’re off this morning, Tuesday, October 15.  Alarm rang at 530 for a 630 pick up to take us and our mountain of luggage to the Interislander, the ferry which takes us to the South Island.  We are aboard a massive ferry called Kaitaki.  You may find more information on the Cook Island ferry passages at:  interislander.co.nz.  Including transporting your horses and ponies and lashing points for your over-size vehicles, like railway cars.  

Until the Polynesians landed here, transported by very long canoes between 1200-700 years ago,  there was no such thing as a Māori. And as there were several landing points, there are 7 tribes all under the name Māori.  Which means  ‘ordinary’.  On Sunday morning, our  most excellent private tour guide Phil at Te Papa Museum, who is a young Māori, opined that Māori is a state of mind.  I am of a like opinion.  You can’t look at someone and determine whether or not they are Māori. Unless they’re tattooed in unusual places, like the mouth and lips.  And then only maybe. 

Māori follow certain rules…conserve and preserve;  they are deeply spiritual, praying before most activities, especially meals; they are welcoming and inclusive and most hospitable.   and always offer food or refreshments after every encounter ….  After the tour we  had a private ‘tasting’ of Māori foods prepared in a most atypical manner.  There was bread made from potatoes .  That is common.  There was a small tart of hāngī pork and mashed sweet potatoes.  And then there was a small bit of dessert not unlike a key lime pie, but lighter .  And tea… a brew of Kawakawa and green tea (what IS that anyway, green tea?) leaves.  It was lovely.  

No 4 legged land mammals are on  these islands except those that were introduced.  Now there are horses, cows, sheep, goats, deer (venison is becoming a big food item here), and rats…also the brushy tailed possum which looks more like a wombat and is not a relative of  our possums.  Their commonality is their nuisance quotient…very very high .  Here, the possum is a source of yarn fiber for clothing. It is often combined with merino wool and silk, 20-40% and very very soft.   We have some yarn to bring home.  Dotty has already begun crocheting a sweater.  

Although not tropical, those colors are prevalent everywhere…and also the patterns.  Wide legged pants are IN.  For women. 

Gardens are about to be in full bloom.  There’s a lot of green space, here.  And almost every parcel,  no matter how small,  has somewhere  to sit,  or something for the children to play on.  

Like much of New England people are outdoors-y, camping and hiking a lot.  

Poverty levels  are rising and have almost tripled since 2004. 

We haven’t had the TV on since we arrived.  Except for the Bills’  games and then we watch on someone’s phone.  

The Pacific Ocean is inappropriately named.  What were they thinking?  

And New Zealanders, being a relatively new country, learned a lot from others’  mistakes and made their own, thus confirming: , that we are perfectly  made. We are deeply flawed.  We are infinitely loved.  

New Zealand runs on hydroelectric power.  They used to burn coal, but do not now.  There’s plenty of water power from the oceans and  wind turbines.  The air is pretty clean!  

addendum by Elizabeth: the following is the video Gammy took at the Mitai Cultural performance